WoFun: storage logic

My WoFun collection(s) will ultimately fit into robust, stackable and conveniently sized plastic boxes, ie 4L or 9L RUBs according to the fundamental principle of wargame figure storage.

In the absence of magnetic sheeting, there has to be another way to stop the stands from rattling around or ending up in a  heap when being transported to the wargames club.

18mm shot, horse and pike stands are all different heights, but share two common dimensions: they are all about 30mm wide and about 20mm deep, front to back. 

Logic dictates that the most flexible and efficient way to store them (and to identify and deploy them) is to lie them down in trays. 

My prototype solutions featured homemade card trays, but I will probably switch to sponge with slots to catch the bases. The ultimate solution may look very different, but I think I've found the right form factor.

WoFun standees: first impressions

A Bluecoat regiment

Modellers, painters and figure collectors should look away now! These aren't for you!

I received my first WoFun standees order - 18mm English Civil War Royalist and Parliamentary forces. The good people at WoFun also threw in a complimentary sprue of Scottish cavalry. Cunning!

On first sight the figures were very vibrant (in a good way) if a little smaller than I had imagined. I rocked the first set of figures backwards and forwards to remove it. This was a mistake as I did a tiny bit of damage. It's better just to push the cut-outs forward. Once I got used to it, it was simple and fast to remove the figures and push them into the supplied MDF stands.

Other than playing with counters or blocks, this is the first time I’ll be able to put armies on the table without condemning myself to months or even years of painting and the common prospect of losing interest in a project long before it’s completed. At my age and with little time for painting, this has become a pressing consideration. Reducing the hobby to a pure wargaming experience is liberating. Of course, I will still be doing little bits of modelling and painting for fun, but it won't be the treadmill on which most previous gaming has been dependent.

Personally, I wouldn't choose WoFun flats for a skirmish game, and I don’t think 2D tanks would be very convincing, but for linear warfare with the players generally facing the front or back of the playing pieces, I think they will be quite convincing.

WoFun armies raise a few questions: duplication, storage and whether to 'pimp' them.

The 18mm sprues typically contain two sets of the featured product which is OK for line infantry but may not be appropriate for rarer units. Unwanted duplicates need to be swapped or sold. 28mm sprues provide a single set of figures so are not affected by this.

I normally base figures on steel so they can be stored and transported safely in plastic boxes lined with magnetic sheet. I'm not sure what to do with these figures. I've yet to find out how brittle/resilient they are, and whether they need to be glued into the stands. They are extremely light - virtually weightless - so it will be quite easy to carry a large number of them and a pity to change this. If I utilise some bubble wrap and am careful, it should be possible to keep them as they are.

It's common to run a black marker around the rim of the figures, though this may reduce the vibrancy. Flocking the bases is also popular. The most extreme thing is to paint the edges to match the faces. I'm not currently planning to do any of these things myself. The last two steps do transform the look fantastically, but they contradict the whole 'ready out of the box' concept.

I'm happy with having chosen 18mm for this particular project, but I'm not entirely convinced this is the best choice in every respect. Although the detail is there when viewed close to and at eye-level, once on the table they tend to look like dark blocks. This is even more characteristic of the 10mm ranges. 

Smaller is darker because a smaller surface reflects less light and is more difficult to see. When painting smaller figures, you compensate by using brighter paint. In this case, I guess Peter Dennis's ink and wash illustrations have simply been digitally reduced which appears to give more emphasis to the ink, and less to the wash.

This does not seem to bother other gamers. 18mm is apparently a lot more popular than 28 mm, and there is huge enthusiasm for 10mm Napoleonics.

Even in full, natural, daylight the stands seem
to present with a lot of 'black ink'.

For my War of Spanish Succession project I'm now inclining towards 28mm. The aesthetic appeal of the Baroque period is an important aspect for me, and the larger scale will show Peter Dennis's brilliant artwork to better advantage.

The 28mm sprues contain half the figures which means that armies will cost twice as much, but the increase in footprint is minimal. A 4-figure 28mm base is about 40mm wide as opposed to about 30mm for the 18s. If playing the envisaged grid game (Simon Miller's Lust for Glory!) this will mean using 6" rather than 4" squares. For Sam Mustafa's Maurice, which I play already, I don't think it will make much difference.

For the WoSS there are two areas where I might intervene, albeit minimally. One is repainting facings and stockings where required to produce specific regiments and to utilise any spare stands. The other is adding 3D paper flags. I'll explain more if/when the time comes.

Whatever the downsides or challenges, I won't have to paint hundreds of figures or risk a further increase in the lead mountain.

Eisenhower: markers and terrain

 

 

Picking up paper markers without long finger-nails is extremely awkward so I printed the designs from the SHAEF document onto self-adhesive labels and stuck them to MDF bases. The objective markers are flipable between Allied and Axis and the unit status markers between Worn and Exhausted.

 

 

For Prepared positions I created some 3D markers using 10mm resin sandbag emplacements from ScaleFiend. I need to get more of these. I'll be using them as markers for 10mm, 6mm and 3mm armies, though they are obviously only in scale with the largest of these.

 

Finally, I made some 4" square Bocage markers using strips of pan scourer. This one is a prototype and a bit messy. It's not quite finished but basically there. I don't intend to paint them. As with the low-relief BUAs and woods I made for Blucher, they're symbolic rather than realistic and the units will be sitting on top rather than 'within' the features. They will look best with 3mm models but will do as markers for 6mm and 10mm. As based, 3mm, 6mm and 10mm models will all fit within 4" squares which gives a nicely compact table, but 6" squares definitely look better aesthetically. Keeping these markers to 4" means I can use them with both sizes of grid.

3mm 1940 for Eisenhower

It was in 2013 that I first mentioned my interest in doing 3mm French and German armies for the Battle of Hannut in May 1940. This developed into the Rommel project before being abandoned, but I've recently been mining the lead mountain and am now processing a fraction of the accumulated Oddzial Osmy 3mm kit for use with Eisenhower. 

The photo shows the entire armies for Hannut: two German and two French armoured divisions. Although historically the largest tank battle then fought, it's small for a game in which there is normally a minimum of three formations (divisions) a side. Each base represents a battalion of tanks or motorised infantry. The German tank battalions were of mixed type. Although the obsolete Panzer Is and IIs predominated, I’ve modelled them as Panzer IVs (the cutting edge) as this makes them more useful for later campaigns.