As planned I developed some light, very low relief scenery for use with the Blucher unit cards which sit on top of the terrain pieces. The aesthetic idea was that the table should resemble an aerial view and be as convincing as possible at first glance, at least from a distance.
As my wargame club is in walking distance, I usually load my stuff into a shopping trolley. I always have that option, but my idea for this project was to keep things as light as possible so the game could be carried in a bag. Given that the armies are just cards, burdening myself with heavy and bulky 3D scenery seemed disproportionate, and, indeed, rather odd in comparison to the flatness of the units.
Anyway, here is the scenery I made or utilised in the order of table placement:
HILLS
As the hills are placed
under the game mat, there are no aesthetic requirements and they can be very rough and ready. I’d accumulated a lot of foamboard offcuts, so I sandwiched these between hill templates cut from new card and trimmed with a scalpel.
The templates were sized and shaped to maximise storage in Really Useful Boxes, and the templates and offcuts were stuck with a Pritt stick, a huge bonus as Mrs Phalanx is particularly averse to glue fumes.
I've nearly exhausted my supply of offcuts so if I need more hills or other shapes and sizes I'll revert to my initial plan which was to make hills from card and plastic milk bottle tops.
Alternatively, I can also use any of my existing hills, most of which are reasonably light. Once under the game mat, they will all look the same!
GAME MATThis is an old felt cloth and not my best game mat, but it's light and soft, and shapes itself over hills put underneath. Think of the creases as natural folds in the ground!
ROADS, RIVERS, MARSH, PLOUGHED FIELDSThese had already been made or bought for previous games. A small metal bridge is my one concession to conventional wargame scenery.
FORESTThese are made by applying a diverse mixture of Woodland Scenics Underbrush Clump-Foliage to leatherette templates using Hob-E-Tac glue. They bend to fit hill contours. They have been fixed with a spray of Scenic Cement. As suggested in the rules they are mostly 3-base widths long which is also a nice fit for storage in RUBs.
ROCKY GROUNDI didn't want anything heavy, tall or messy. I eventually hit on the idea of using broken up cork floor tiles.
BUILT UP AREASThe village or town areas are 100mm (4") squares so they can be conveniently occupied by a single unit card with a little space to spare to remind players that attackers are entering rough ground. The buildings are from old Monopoly games picked up in charity shops. Some are finished as city areas, the rest as villages. Making the BUAs was fun.
FORTIFICATIONSFlat lolly sticks with matchsticks. I added Tetrion Filler to one side to create revetments.
The terrain pieces are stylised but convincing enough. More pictures of the scenery will be featured in game use in my next post.